Brow Pigments
We now have more choices than ever when selecting pigments. Many factors come into play, but one key decision is pigment type: organic vs. inorganic. This topic often sparks debate and confusion in the industry.
What are inorganic pigments? What are organic pigments?
Organic pigments are carbon-based, while inorganic pigments are derived from natural minerals. /iron-oxides/.
Organic: more vibrant and color range.
Inorganic: more muted, earthy tones.
Particle size & appearance:
Organic pigments typically have smaller particles, reflect more light, and appear more translucent.
Inorganic pigments have larger particles, reflect less light, and are more opaque.
Deposit & longevity:
Organic pigments are bright, implant quickly, and last longer.
Inorganic pigments are earthier, often require multiple passes for full saturation, and are less long-lasting.
Hybrid formulations combine both organic and inorganic particles.
What’s in your pigments? Identifying CI numbers
Only recently have pigment manufacturers begun sharing detailed formulations so we can better understand what they're applying. Two pigments might look similar—say, medium brown—but their particle compositions differ, affecting how they behave in the skin.
You can find ingredient details in the pigment’s Safety Data Sheet (SDS), specifically through CI (Color Index) codes. These help you understand how each ingredient performs in the skin. Look for CI codes or general color identifiers like Yellow 14 or Red 254. Each pigment color comes with a unique 5-digit CI code (e.g., Yellow 138, CI 56300), usually listed in descending order of concentration.
Differences in characteristics
Organic:
Man-made, carbon-based
Bright, vivid color
Installs easily into the skin
Low opacity
Variable lightfastness
Very long skin longevity
Inorganic:
Mineral-based (iron-oxide formulas)
Earthy, muted tones
Needs more passes to saturate
High opacity
High lightfastness
Less permanent (1–2 years)
Powerhouse ingredients
Titanium Dioxide White (CI 77891) – inorganic, high-opacity brightener often used in color correctors.
Carbon Black (CI 77266) – inorganic, adds cool/dark tones and boosts longevity. Despite being inorganic, its tiny particle size makes it behave more like organic pigments.
Both are extremely lightfast and tend to leave behind ashy/grey (for Carbon Black) or nude-yellow (for Titanium Dioxide) undertones in skin.
When to use organic vs. inorganic pigments
Organic pigments implant easily and remain vibrant for longer, meaning less frequent touch-ups.
Inorganic pigments sink in more slowly, are more forgiving, but fade faster.
If using organic pigments, avoid oversaturation is crutial—start conservatively and reassess after healing. Technique is crucial, especially on thinner skin: maintaining consistent needle angle, depth, hand speed, and pressure. Stop when we achieve a “powdery” saturation.
The nature of inorganic pigments
Inorganic pigments are less permanent and tend to fade within a couple of years. Their larger particles make implantation slower, often requiring slightly heavier pressure and multiple passes for optimal saturation.
Maintenance
Fade rates differ between organic and inorganic pigments. Client factors like previous PMU, overall health, skincare habits, and environment also play a role. Explain that, like hair or nails, brows need ongoing maintenance. Over time, color will soften and shapes may need updating.
Timing & Touch-ups
Organic pigments often require no immediate touch-up and can last 2–3 years before needing refreshment.
Inorganic pigments may need a follow-up after the initial session to reach full saturation, with routine touch-ups recommended every 12–24 months.
Residual Colors
Organic pigments often leave a cool/ashy undertone due to Carbon Black and Titanium Dioxide.
Inorganic (iron-oxide) pigments may leave red/orange or cool/ashy residual hues as they break down.
What to do if brows are over-saturated
If they appear too dense, flat, or dark, laser tattoo removal is the most effective solution.
What are hybrid pigments?
Hybrid pigments contain both organic and inorganic particles. This blend captures the best of both worlds—vibrant color, solid opacity, and reliable longevity.
Color chart
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